During festivals the Arunachaleshwar is awash in golden flames and the roasting scent of burning ghee, as befits the fire incarnation of the Destroyer of the Universe. This 10-hectare temple is one of the largest in India. Its oldest parts date back to the 9th century and the site was a place of worship long before that. Four large unpainted gopurams mark the entrances, with the main, eastern one rising 13 storeys and an astonishing 66m. Inside the complex are five more gopurams , two tanks and a profusion of sub-temples and shrines (the interactive map at www.arunachaleswarar.com/earunastructure.html is a help). To reach the innermost sanctum, with its huge lingam, worshippers must pass through five surrounding prakarams (compounds). The temple elephant gives blessings inside the second gopuram coming from the east
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